Molly Dingledine

Day 8: Too much to catch up on

2010-07-14T08:31:00.000-07:00

It has been too long since my last post and I don't know where to begin! I'll start where I left off, in Madison.....

My show in Madison was good. Not amazing, but I was happy with sales and my customers were very nice. I enjoy watching people at these shows. Two things I noticed about people in Madison: there is a lot of pink hair and too many short shorts.

In addition to these entertaining

but superficial observations, I also like to watch my customers. For those of you who are familiar with my work,you know it carries more meaning than one may realize at first glance.

My customers seem to be thoughtful when they really stop to look at my jewelry. Some people just stare, or whisper under their breath "wow" or "beautiful." (These are observations, mind you, I'm not flattering myself.) Why is this? Possibly do some people "get" what it's about? Do they somehow get a feeling from it?

I don't ask that question, really. I just hope that when they see it, buy it, wear it, or give it, that they are touched by some energy that is always inherent in handmade objects- that, I believe, is the spirit of artwork.

So I'm walking down the street in Madison with a couple friends when a big gust of wind comes out of the middle of nowhere and my skirt goes billowing above my HEAD. Oh yeah, clear view. The 3 men across the street got a show that day.

Fellow artists, you know this is a hard job. (And YES, for those of you who aren't in this business, it IS a real job!) We wear so many "hats"- we are the art

ist, the designer, the maker, the business-person (and all THAT encompasses), and at these shows, we are the handyman who hauls our entire booth (yes, everything in that 10' x 10' space travels with us). And when the gods decide to bring on a thunderstorm, it is US, the lucky artist who has so much fun doing what we do, who is lucky enough to tear it all down in the rain and wind.

My hotel room that night had 9 sopping wet curtains strewn across the furniture.

Monday I hit the road. 90 West. This is what I saw for hours. It was amazing.By the end of the 12 hour drive I could hardly see out my windshield. That's what 1500 miles will do.

I think I drove almost 900 miles that day. I made it to Custer State Park in South Dakota (where Mt. Rushmore is) just in time to get to m

y campground, take a hot shower, make myself another turkey and provalone sandwhich, and pitch my little tent. As I sat under the

pine trees, I thought to myself... Finally this part of the trip has come. In the dark, I brought out my digital voice recorder for the first time. Although I dislike listening to my own recorded voice, I knew there would be times when pen and paper were unavailable and it would be easier just to have a conversation with this little piece

of technology. Never wanting to draw attention to myself, I kept my voice low (although I was a hundred yards from the other campers) and put my face in my sleeping bag, under a q

uilt, so no one could hear me. I'll have to learn to get better at it.

Finally I'm doing the REALLY fun part of my trip! I have a feeling of excitement and peace, and then again yesterday when I drove from South Dakota through parts of Wyoming and Montana, I was overwhelmed with thanksgiving for my freedom, once again.

Below you can see and a view from Harney Peak (something like 7500' elevation...) and the Badlands in SD (I call them the Badass Lands)

It occurred to me, looking at this... barreling down the highway through Wyoming and eastern Montana... little ol' western towns with no traffic lights and nothing commercial at all... hills and valleys... rock formations new to my eyes... just at dusk... hardly anyone else in sight.................

that this Earth was created for each and every one of us- "US" I mean us, of course, but all the creatures and microorganisms, every kind of plant, every blade of grass.... We ALL have our place here. I belong here just as that tree in the "middle of nowhere" (which now has a new meaning to me), and just as the little chimpmunk scampering across the rock and the moss that grows on that very rock.

This world is not perfect, never has been, never will be. But everything created on Earth in the beginning (before we came and messed it all up) IS PERFECT. Note the difference between "world" and "Earth". But you know, it's mostly beautiful. So lets do this: see the perfectionwithin it. It is there, and we have the eyes to see it.

Right now I'm in Billings, MT, heading into Yellowstone today. It'll be a few days until my next post, but prepare yourself for some amazing pictures.

On a lighter note, I will leave you with this, and no explanation.

Day 3: Bike Tour

2010-07-09T13:16:00.000-07:00

I decided the best way to see Madison was on a bicycle. So I rented one. I rode around the arboretum and a trail that circles the whole city and really got a feel for this place. I guess because it's so cold during the winter, people really take care of their gardens when it's warm out. This is one of my favorite lilies- the Stargazer.

The highlight of today has definitely been seeing this percussionist play on the street. His name is Joseph and is possibly the most incredible drum player I've met. I bought him a water and we chatted a bit... he teaches children mostly and was saying that teaching reminds him of why he does what he does and what it means to him. I wish you could have seen it.

I had lunch with the parents of the boy in the 6th grade who was my first kiss. He moved with his family here to Madison when we were 12 and I was devastated, but we have kept in touch for more than 16 years! It's a special thing.... He is a super talented artist, you should check him out. www.matthewharrisart.com

Below you will see one of the prettiest cupcakes I've ever seen. It was even prettier all over my face. Cheers.

Day 2: Madison

2010-07-08T18:06:00.000-07:00

Current location: Madison, WI

States visited today: Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin

My old friend Sheena and I had a blast catching up last night! She is a floor-display coodinator at Anthropologie- check out some of the work she has done for the store! It is beautiful and in

inspiring.

I met up with my "Show Aunt & Uncle" (I have craft fair family...) aka Linda and Glenn Mace, also from NC. Glenn is showing his incredible turned wood pieces: www.glennmacewoodworks.com

This show is HUGE! 450 artists... 2-day show... over 100,000 people...!

Here is a sneak peak at this year's exhibiting artists:

www.mmoca.org/events/artfair/artists

The Madison Museum of Contempoary Art has carried my jewelry for only about a month now, so we checked it out- it's always cool to see my jewelry displayed somewhere else! We walked through the front door and up to the woman behind the info desk, and I said "Those are my earrings and necklace you're wearing!"

Here they are.

I'm organizing all my jewelry for this show and the following two in Bellevue and Park City.

There are PILES.

Of Jewelry.

Day 1: Flying Tires

2010-07-07T19:51:00.000-07:00

Day 1

Current location: Indianapolis

States visited: NC, Tennessee, Kentucky, Indiana

Kentucky is being taken over by Starbucks.

Indiana is being taken over by Hooters.

I finally left 2 days and 2 hours late. But here I am, at the apartment of one of my old college roommates (we haven't seen each other since graduation over 5 years ago!) Indianapolis is hot but they have good ice cream and beer.

So I'm barreling down I-40 not far yet from home when a giant truck tire comes flying into the front corner of my car, smashing my headlight into a dozen pieces. These things never happen. Only within the first 50 miles of my cross-country trip. Ridiculous.

Some so-called expert road-trippers claim that string cheese is a good snack on a long car ride. I challenge this idea and say that string cheese is only good in desperation. I am not that desperate on Day 1. I'll reassess on Day 51. Chocolate pudding cups, on the other hand...

See you in Madison!

4 Shows, 8 Weeks, and a Few Thousand Miles

2010-07-06T09:07:00.000-07:00

It has been over a year since my last post...

This next paragraph is an update since then:

Life after Africa was definitely an adjustment, but I settled back into "normal life" (it is all relative) and got on with things.

Last year in August and this February I attended my first wholesale shows, so now my work is represented in more than 30 galleries nationwide. My business has definitely shifted to more wholesale accounts and a few less craft shows. Upon my return

from Cameroon, I decided immesiately that I wanted to see MY country and all the amazing things it offers. So, I am off on another journey.

I will be attending 4 craft shows across the country: Madison WI, Bellevue WA, Park City UT, and Baltimore MD. Each show is 2 weeks apart, so in between I will be sightseeing, backpacking, camping, making new friends, and spending a LOT of time by myself. (It turns out that there is no ROOM for anyone in my car after all!) You can check out my website to see the dates of the shows: www.mollydingledine.com.

In church on Sunday July 4th, we sang Woodie Guthrie's "This Land is Our Land," appropriately on Independence Day and right before my trip. A fe

w words really spoke to me... "As I went walking that ribbon of highway I saw above me that endless skyway, I saw below me that golden valley... I roamed and rambled, and I followed my footsteps... Nobody living can ever stop me as I go walking my freedom highway. Nobody can make me turn back. This land was made for you and me." It struck me, once again, that I am SO fortunate to live freely. I don't know oppression and I hope I never will, and every day I am thankful for it, especially when I am about to embark on yet another traveling adventure.

The show this weekend in Madison has 450 artists! I hear it is a good show, and I hope it meets my expectations, although I know how risky expectations are. It will be whatever it will be, and that will be just fine. That is kind of my attitude towards this trip: Much

of it is unknown, but whatever it offers will be great. It will be a hard-working super-vacation, filled with days of meeting new people and selling jewelry, followed by several days of driving and hiking and camping.

I told my grandmother the other day, "Grandmere, I bought a 3.5" thick self-inflating sleeping mat, and I am going to sleep in my car on top of all my stuff." She ga

sps and says "OH MY DEAR! Darling, will you have enough privacy?"

Meet Janet (my Subaru) and Rov (the Thule... it is a swedish name meaning something derogatory because it made me cry the other day when it wouldn't lock.)

Final Horrah!

2009-04-28T07:48:00.000-07:00

The week before I left Cameroon, we took a trip to Kribi, a beach town in the South West province. It was by FAR the most dramatic and exciting trip of my life, with activities ranging from blowing a tire on the highway, playing in a waterfall in the rain on my birthday (yes, I am now 27), locking ourselves out of the car, eating fish and plantain chips on the beach and ending the evening in a Michael Jackson dance party (see picture of Brian), and the most thrilling was learning that my airline changed its departure days and I no longer had a flight out of Cameroon.

However! I did make it home (I am currently on a very fast internet connection in Charleston), safe and sound, welcomed home by family and dogs. Mom prepared a beautiful birthday dinner and a GIANT CHOCOLATE CAKE! (I substituted my chocolate cake cravings with chocolate cookies which don't even compare. Anna specially ordered a "chocolate cake" for my birthday which was flavored with Ovaltine. Hilarious.)

Yesterday I had an episode of an overloaded sensory system. My head almost spun off my neck and my eyes welled up in tears, but I managed to pull it together and survived to tell the story. Needless to say, though, I am struggling to adjust. This world is much louder, busier, shinier, and more organized with systems and regulations (many of which seem completely absurd.) At times I just have to close my eyes to the intensity. The strangest was the first time I was alone in the house... the silence was screaming at me.

My last week...

2009-04-09T03:25:00.000-07:00

I met the Kom Chief at his palace! Anna and I took motorbikes up there. It overlooked the whole valley! We could see Belo in the distance. At his palace, he lives with some of his wives and hundreds of his children. Yes, the Fawn (they call him) has over 60 wives, almost 400 children, and at 90 years old, is STILL producing children. Go Chief!

I went trekking with a friend on Palm Sunday, so everyone was drinking palm wine (really interesting, comes from a palm tree, obviosly). Every village we passed we stopped in a little bar, had a bottle of palm wine, got tipsy and kept on walking to the next village.... Was a wonderful day.

I've been working with a guy who does agroforestry at an organization here. We planted flowers and trees at the school last week! (the wall has also been finished) I've been learning a LOT about agriculture in the area, sustainable practices, etc. We visited a nursery where they cultivate coffee, several medicinal plants, passion fruits, and many others. They want to start an environmental education program for youths, where they can move from village to village and visit schools along the way. The idea is developing, and it seems like it could be VERY successful! Maybe my next fundraising project!

Yesterday was Easter, and my "sister," Corrine, who lives next door took me to the Baptist church. She is a sweet and bright 13 year old who likes to visit us and draw flowers while we work. They spoke mostly in their dialect, so I didn't understand much, but nonetheless it was an experience! My favorite part was at the end when everyone got up to give their contributions. We filed out like we do for communion, row after row, but instead of an organ playing, there were drums! tambourines! shakers! clapping and singing! EVERYONE was dancing- the old women we call "Ma," the small children, everyone! One of the things I love most about people here is that they LOVE to dance. I've danced more here than I have in the past 2 years!

We met with our Women's Group and talked more about women's issues, like personal hygeine, HIV/AIDS, etc. They were so attentive; they really wanted to soak up all the information. At the end, "Ma" said to me, "May god take you safely home, and may that same god bring you back to us." I walked out and started crying at the thought of leaving all of my friends, my community, the projects, and all of the potential. (Anna and I are already talking about our next trip here. She has fallen in love...)

I have more ideas every day! I remember thinking that I wouldn't be able to accomplish much because of the challenges and obstales. I also remember thinking that if I could somehow make a difference... even in one person's life... it would be successful. I can see how my work has been successful through the vibrancy of the children when they finish a drawing, through the women who listen and ask questions (and thank us by making us eat fo-fo corn and jamanjama), everyone who is excited about the school, and simply through the response of the community. They have welcomed us with open arms and open hearts. If they even knew how they have opened my heart...

This is my last week. I'm trying not to think about it... Just as I thought that my world would be turned upside down when I arrived, I know that my world will be shaken again when I return. I wouldn't say that my world was turned upside down. It shifted. It expanded. It opened. It accepted. It is overflowing. And it is forever changed.

Wubangna in the Rain

2009-04-01T04:05:00.000-07:00

To clarify the title, a "wubangna" is the Kom term for "white man," literally translated to "red skin."

The rainy season is in full swing, so each afternoon we have a thunderstorm that moves in a dumps rain for about an hour or 2, then off-and-on for the rest of the day. It is lovely if you can curl up at home with a book or sit on your covered front porch and watch the downpour, but there isn't much sitting around happening (I did come here to work, even in the rain!) It happens: getting caught in the rain. I've wised up and realized the necessity of carrying a rain jacket at all times. Well, the other day I was walking back from the office and the gray cloud moved over quickly and before I knew it, everyone at 3 Corners (the center of town, see photo above) was running for cover! It is quite comical, actually. The motorbike drivers abandon their bikes, the ladies serving corn and beans on the street shack up under the market, the children duck under their parents, the girls on the street having their hair "platted" shimmy inside their shack, and only the goats, pigs, and sheep are left to bear the storm. My shelter was on the porch of the fish store. It didn't smell so great, and since it was chilly I decided that I'd like to take a cup of tea with my friend, Joseph, who runs a little "coffee shop". If you're thinking Starbucks, you couldn't be more off... No umbrella, no raincoat. But I won't MELT in the rain! I'll dry off eventually! So I take off down the muddy sidewalk and THROUGH the middle of town where the 3 main roads meet. Mind you, there is NO ONE out. EVERYONE is under cover. I am the only person, let alone WHITE PERSON crazy enough to risk getting wet. As I'm flailing myself through a deserted intersection, I hear laughter from every direction. The entire town was hysterical over a white man running through the rain...

The school project is moving along! I feel slightly silly giving directions to old Cameroonian men, but things here in Cameroon can move frustratingly slowly, and sometimes you've got to be the boss. We've installed electricity in the 2nd classroom! We have quotes for custom furniture- tables, benches, little sofas for the reading corner. Still thinking about what color to paint the outside... I'll post another picture as soon as something exciting happens!

Mount Cameroon!

2009-03-29T08:20:00.000-07:00

I sucessfully hiked to the summit of the highest mountain in central and west Africa at 13,500 feet! It was the most amazing hiking experience of my life. It was very strenous, but once at the peak, we were so excited and amazed. Mount Cameroon is an active volcano, the last eruption in 2000. We had to do a dance for the mountain so it wouldn't erupt on us. It took 3 days and 2 nights, and we traveled through forests, fields, over lava flows, on the edge of craters... It was absolutely incredible! Our guide was very knowlegable about the mountain, and at 54, he hiked in plastic sandals and left me in the dust. It was really kind of embarassing,

but the man has hiked to the summit almost 100 times, so he knows the trails like the back of his hand.

We were a group of 11: 5 of us, 5 porters carrying our packs and food, and our guide, Hans. We learned all about the mountain, its history, myths, endemic species of animals and plants and trees... Hans was formerly an elephant hunter. They only stopped hunting elephants in 1996- I know... that's incredible! The mountain is not yet a National Forest, so hunters are still allowed to hunt whatever is left... monkeys, antelope. There are almost 30 endemic species of bird and 6 of monkeys. Since the sound of humans terrify the monkeys, we did not see any, nor any other animals. We could have hiked farther to see the elephants- since they aren't hunted anymore, the population has grown to about 200.

After the hike we treated ourselves to a sit on the beach... for 3 days. It was beautiful and it smelled like home. It was amazing to think that I grew up swimming in those same waters, only on the other side of the ocean. The sand was black, of course, as it is at the base of a volcanic mountain. 4 of the other volunteers flew out on Friday for home. I was very sad to say goodbye to my friends, but at the same time I was thankful to have had them in my life. After a terribly long and tortuous journey, I am safely back in Belo. I was welcomed back warmly from my local friends, so although it seems quiet without the others, I know I'm loved here in my temporary home.

Just a snapshot of a typical bus. Terribly uncomfortable, as you can see. So imagine this, for 8 hours. Sporting my OBAMA pride! I almost fell in.....

Since the last time.....

2009-03-20T02:03:00.000-07:00

I know, its been quite a while. I am alive and well, no worries!

There has been a lot happening here! It is all very exciting, and the most exciting to me is the work we are doing on the the school that is being built! It is a vision of another volunteer- Andy, from Scotland- who has been coming to Belo for the past 3 years to continue developing his projects. This year's project is a school building designed for the after-school program that the organization has created. I have been helping there for the past couple of weeks, and it is so rewarding to see actual progress being made! I have mostly been painting (you know how I love home-improvement) which has been REALLY fun- every window and frame is a different color, so we've been making a giant mess mixing oil paints but enjoying every second. We've even recruited some locals to help! (It is hard to get locals to help... usually they just like to stand there for hours and watch us work... very annoying.) With the help of my friends and family who have graciously donated money to help finish this project, we have been able to: pour the concrete floor in the 2nd classroom, finish painting the windows and walls, begin plastering the outside of the building, and..... GET ELECTRICITY! That is HUGE! Almost no one here has electricity- let alone schools (I have not yet seen one school with electricity.) So, to those wonderful people who have helped, A BIG THANK YOU FROM ALL OF US HERE! We still need to finish! If you want to help, a little bit of money can go a long way. We still need to: finish plastering the outside, paint the outside, get electricity in the 2nd classroom, build furniture (desks and such) and build a fence around the school. PLEASE email me if you want to help. And tell your friends! My email is mollydingledine@gmail.com.

I am also working on a Women's Health Project with our newest volunteer, Anna, from Germany. We had a meeting with a women's group last week, and we were completely ASTOUNDED by the lack of knowledge that these women have about sex education, HIV/AIDS, birth control... They don't know how HIV is spread or how to prevent it... One woman even commented on the unusual and extreme pains she experiences before giving birth. The education they need is so basic, and we are VERY excited about preparing our next meeting with them. People love when we come to visit- whether it is with the Old People's Club, a home visit to elvaluate an orphan, or the Women's group. Inevitably they prepare fofo corn and jamajama- a lump of tasteless, sticky, starchy ground corn (kind of like a giant ball of hard grits without any flavoring) and boiled huckleberry leaves drenched in thick red palm oil... And they watch us eat it... all of it. And as thankful as I am, I spend the rest of the day with an angry stomach.

We took a long trek on Sunday to a summit on one of the hills close by. We like to explore- there are no real paths- so we set our eyes on a destination and just walk towards it, hiking along ridges, through farms with wild horses and herding cattle, through Fulani compounds (the Fulani tribe are Muslim and often men have several wives), bouldering up rocky hillsides, through woods and brush, across streams and by waterfalls... It is breathtaking, and with the new rains, everything is turning green again. Soon it will all be green... and muddy. We scrambled up an extremely steep hill to reach these rocky cliffs that looked like monstrous pillars growing out of the Earth. There was a group of three "pillars" standing on their own, and I couldn't resist climbing up to the top. (See picture) From there I could see three waterfalls and across mountains for miles. Amaaaaazing!

The mice remain a nucance. Every day I discover mice poo everywhere, the worst is on my bed. I can only imagine them wreaking havoc while we are gone.... I think they are becoming more comfortable with us, because they are now unafraid of showing their pesky little faces.

My housemate, Hannah, and the French Boys as we call them, and a local guy named Jude left early this morning to head to Kiribi- a beach town in the South West region. They'll spend 2 days there and then Andy and I will meet them in Boya to hike MOUNT CAMEROON! It is the highest peak in central and west Africa, and an active volcano! Hopefully I won't wake up in my tent with lava flowing by. It will take 3 days and 2 nights, and I hear it is really tough. It will be a good send-off, though, to Hannah, the Boys, and Andy who all leave on March 27. I am sad to say goodbye to my friends... In such a small town you see everyone many times a day. These people have become my best friends! Several nights a week we have dinner at each other's houses, taking turns preparing dinner, and usually ending up in a dance party! Last night we had a party with lots of our local friends. Although I am sad to say goodbye to my friends, I am SO thankful to have had the time together. It has been a time of unforgettable memories and lasting friendships that I will always carry with me.

Next post will be after Mount Cameroon!

I got Slapped by a Monkey named Jack

2009-03-03T23:42:00.000-08:00

This is me making fou-fou corn. It's harder than I thought!
Last weekend we visited a tea plantation, and we met several wonderful animals: An ostrich, peacocks, a bull, and my favorite, Jack the monkey. He is a "white ice monkey." He belongs to a guy who works at the plantation, so he is somewhat trained. Sadly, most of the time he stays tied up, but he will go on hikes and swing from the trees as he follows his owner. I was DYING to play with him, so I have him my banana. He was happy enough. So I walked over and he let me pet him a little. As we were leaving I said "goodbye" by reaching toward him for a little pat, and he slapped me! That is the last time I give my banana away to a monkey named Jack.

After almost 4 weeks life just seems normal. The things that were fascinating in the beginning have softened, and I've begun to settle into somewhat of a rhythm.

The past few days have been really challenging. I've been wondering if I'm making any sort of impact. I just see so much that is needed for even the smallest thing to change. It feels daunting to imagine myself taking on the smallest bit of that responsibility. Its not my responsibility, but that's why I'm here- to give and share something that I think I have within myself. And to think that even if I give everything I possibly can, it might not make any difference. I was thinking of it like this: Its like trying to cut 100,000 acres of grass with a pair of scissors.

I'm still trying to get my schedule together. Some of the work I am doing is sporadic, which might contribute to not feeling productive. I'm figuring out that most of what I'll be doing is probably teaching.

I have several boys who cannot recognize any number (not even 1 through 5). They can count to ten but don't know what the numbers look like. The same with the alphabet. Some children are entirely unresponsive, even when you look them in the eye and ask them a specific question. They stare... then you ask again... and they stare. It's frustrating! I wonder, is anything sinking in? The major problem is that these children are not encouraged to be interactive or creative. In school they are completely disengaged; teachers write information on the board and tell the children to copy it down into their exercise books. Whether they follow instructions or not, there is no one who really cares. In a class of 80+, what teacher has the time?

If someone puts in SO much time to work with a child, and day after day you don't see a change, do you stop working with them because, in reality, you know it's not making any difference?

So, I'm doing my best to keep myself busy. I think the children really enjoy the art classes. They need the freedom and encouragement to be creative, to express themselves. Not even to express themselves in a new way, but to simply express something they have within.

It smells like bacon (a pleasant change from dust). My mind is drifting to my kitchen... where there will be anything but bananas, potatoes, or rice. I'm thinking some fantastic French cuisine... (And for those who were worried about my weight- don't. I have discovered "SMILES"- smiley-face cookies of which I eat a pack a day.)

Our Orphans, Our Home, and Our Housemates

2009-02-26T06:00:00.001-08:00

Here is a photo of the view from our house, looking down on the school and up the hill to town.

One of the projects we have is an orphan program, which is still in the beginning stages of development. On Saturday we met with each of them and found out some info about their living situation and needs. Every one of them needs school supplies, some need uniforms and school shoes. There are also some who have more specific needs, such as a mattress and covers. Yesterday I dropped off some food for some orphans from the other organization. The homes are very basic: clay brick walls, dirt floor, one room, maybe two, and a fire pit in the middle. Most don't have electricity, and almost none have running water. They sleep on bamboo beds with a mattress on top, but many of them don't even have a mattress, so they're sleeping on sticks of bamboo essentially. Think of this when you climb into your bed tonight, and you'll be very thankful for it!

I have to wonder how they feel every day. Some live with their loving grandparents or aunts, but I think some are neglected. Life here makes people tough, beginning at a young age. (You'll see a 6 year old walking uphill with a bunch of firewood balanced on his head.) But they are still children without parents. How do they feel when people openly talk about their dead mother? Do they miss her? Do they remember her? I can't imagine who I would be without the love of my mom and dad, not to mention their presence and care.

I have already bought a bedspread and sheet at the market today, which costs $9. I also bought a shirt and hat for our little albino girl (see picture). Tomorrow we have a meeting at her compound to discuss water sanitation issues and albinism. I will share the info I have with the family and encourage them to cover her skill so it doesn't burn. They don't even know what it is- they think it's ring worms... but it's a 2nd degree burn.

I'm not asking for your money or to sponsor. I am just letting you know what the situation is here. We don't even have a way of accepting money from overseas (you would not believe the banking system here. Think 1900.) But, if this moves you, and you want to give any amount of money (just $5 goes a long way here) you can email me at mollydingledine@gmail.com. We can figure something out.

On a lighter note! Isn't our view amazing? At 7:30 every morning the school children sing... such a joyful sound! This is the hill we walk up twice a day. Recently we've become very lazy... and keen on taking a motorbike... How can I pass up a $.20 ride to town?

Our home is, by Belo standards, luxurious. We have tile floors, plaster walls, electricity and running water. (Well, electricity and running water most of the time.) There have been about a dozen power cuts since I've been here, lasting anywhere from 5 minutes to 36 hours. My favorite power cut was when I was in the shower, and I had just lathered my entire body... And my favorite water outage occurred when I was in the shower and had just shampooed my hair... But don't let this fool you, I don't take that many showers. If its cool out, sometimes I just can't handle cold water... am I that dirty?

BREAKING NEWS! (I'm typing this on my front porch.) A van just drove by with about 5 goats strapped to the top of it, hollering the whole way up the hill! (It's commonplace to haul goats around in taxis here, if you can imagine that.)

Oh, Our Housemates... There are several different types and species. Most common is Georgette, one of the yard chickens, who incessantly tries to sneak in the house. (Inspired by Curious George.) There there are the insects... They come around at night when we have the lights on. The worst is the disgusting flying worm thing that slams itself into the light bulb. There are smaller ones that try to weasel themselves through the mosquito net, and in the morning they have all dropped dead in a circle on my bed. Last night we were introduced to our newest mates. Well, I had a pre-introduction in the form of small pellets of poo beside my pillow. A small entourage of mice cheerfully decided to bunk up with us, keeping us up all night getting into mischief. Oh, they were having a BALL! Climbing up and down the curtains, into our suitcases, across our clothes, behind the head of our bed (not to mention startling the crap out of us every time they made a sound.) They loved the game "light on- stand still, light off- RUN!" I woke up a couple of times to myself gasping and believing that the mice were scampering across my bed. So Rose bought some poison, and that should be that.

Speaking of creepy crawlers, I was properly introduced to Cameroonian culture by something called a "jigger." The larva live in dust (of which there is plenty), they grab onto your toe, make their way in, and set up camp to turn into a worm that then turns into a fly. You think you're grossed out! It was in MY foot!

My most recent frustration is with the school system here. There can be more than 80 students in one class. There is no way for the teachers to focus on any one student, so these kids are just passed onto the next class. Primary school is class 1 through 6. There are students in class 6 who can't read. I am working with an 8 year old who can't count. Its disgraceful, but it sure does make me grateful for the opportunity to have a wonderful education. And a GREAT appreciation for teachers, much more than I have ever had before. THANKS MOM! YOU'RE AWESOME!

A Chicken with her Head Cut Off

2009-02-23T02:38:00.000-08:00

People eat everything here. Meaning, they eat the entire fish, they eat every organ of a cow, and they eat every single piece of a chicken.

Our landlord had a party the other day in our house which we were invited to (wasn't that nice of them?). A woman came around with a bowl of fried chicken and let people reach in a chose a piece. (I had seen them earlier that morning tossing around several whole chickens in the kitchen.) So Hannah and I each picked out one, and Hannah turned to us and said under her breath, "I got the head." She was petrified, because it is disrespectful not to eat everything on your plate. So she's sitting there going.... oh my god what do I do... So she took a long look at it and nibbled just a little on the head, and slowly lowered it down into her napkin. Well, she just couldn't do it. But later I saw Corine, a 13 year old girl who lives next door, delightfully chewing on a chicken's foot. I asked her if she liked it, and she said yes, like it was the most ridiculous thing I could have ever inquired about. Then I asked her about the head, and she responded the same. So I said, "You eat the brains? The eyes? The beak? Everything?" She goes, "well no, not the eyes."

We went on the most amazing trek (thats what they call a hike) yesterday. We rode in a taxi- of course Cameroonian style- down the road to a town called Mbingo (you can have a good time saying that one!). We hiked up a huge hill and came out on the ridge of the mountain. We walked all along the ridge and then down through lots of farms and other little towns back to Belo. All of the houses here are the same, essentially. The bricks are made from local red clay, they are rectangle, one room on the inside, a tin or grass roof, and a dirt floor. Almost no one has a concrete or tile floor. Everything has to be loaded in by HAND- or sometimes wheelbarrow. But think about carrying these giant bricks (about the size of a cinderblock) several miles into the woods... I might have to deal with a dirt floor, too.

To all of my friends who I've hiked with, every one of you, I thought of you yesterday. All of the beautiful hikes through the mountains around Asheville came to my mind. All of the wonderful experiences I have shared with you, my friends, were fresh in my mind. You were all there with me, and I just wanted to say I wish you could have been there, and I love you.

We had a dinner party with the other "whites" as people call us here. The other volunteers from another local organization here came to our house for a big pot of what I like to call stewish- onions, garlic, carrots, potatoes, fresh herbs, beans, and beef. (My friend Andy took me to the "butcher's shop" which for some reason, I envisioned with a counter, maybe a refrigerator, but it was just a wooden outdoor bench with different parts of the cow scattered about. Imagine the largest swarm of flies you can.... and then imagine them all over the meat. Thats what a butcher's shop is like here. Sorry to all my vegetarian friends.)

The after school art program is going pretty well. It's more challenging than I thought it might be. I brought some books for teaching children art, but nearly all of the projects are too advanced for their level. I thought I'd give the children a quiz to see what they could do, so we started out folding our paper into 4 rectangles. Some of the smaller ones really didn't get it. Then in box #1 I had them draw a horizontal, vertical, and diagonal line (which we practiced last Monday). Some of them remembered, but it took quite a while. Some knew a square, circle, triangle... Then I was going to ask them what the primary colors are, but since I suspected they didn't know, I just asked them to think of three colors and write them down. (This area is english speaking, not french) Some of the children didn't know their colors (they told Hannah her back shirt was red) let alone know how to spell them. So today we'll work on shapes and colors. I think it might be the first time they've been encouraged to be creative and free. The school system here is STRICT! Wow... no wonder they seem terrified to draw a line. If they can just enjoy it while I'm here, I'll feel like I accomplished something.

Hungry, Hungry Hippos!

2009-02-20T00:25:00.000-08:00

Yesterday we had an adventure... We went with our new friends from another volunteer organization here to a lake to visit 4 hippopotamuses! The trip there took about 2 hours in a bus made for 7 passengers, but everyone rides "cameroonian style" here (not by choice) so there were 10 in the back and 3 in the front. It makes for a somewhat uncomfortable journey barreling through dirt roads that, at home, I wouldn't dream of taking my Forester on. A two hour trip usually calls for 2 extra tires and plenty of time to change them! Once we arrived at the lake, we got into a wooden "yacht" that seeped water through the joints and had a wooden plank across it as seats. One guy in the back was bucketing water out of the bottom... So we came upon the hippos... we could see their eyes and ears poking out of the water... We rowed closer to get a better look, chatting about their agessive nature, and as their gigantic eyes dipped under the surface, it occured to us that they were charging... Ok, so we're in this slightly sinking wooden boat, crammed with... guess what?... too many people (by my standards, not theirs). When they surfaced again several yards closer to us, a scene from JAWS came to mind and I panicked. So what did we do? Turned around to get a BETTER LOOK! Obviously I survived to tell about it....

This area is disgustingly dusty. When the rains come in the middle of March, it will become better, but right now at the end of the day I slighly resemble a black person. Between that and the sun I'm getting (sorry to all of you with severe spring fever) soon the people here will stop calling us "you white people."

Everyone refers to us as "you people." "You people are welcome here." "Do you people want to ride in my taxi that already has 9 people in it?"

As much as I love aspects of life here, like the simplicity, community, locality, I am thankful for my life at home, even if it is too full of complications of society. People here do things because it is the way it has always been done. Its their way of life, and they don't question it. First, the concept of "family planning" is non-existent. Girls as young as 14 begin having children, and they don't stop. Many of the women are unmarried, and they could have 6 children with 6 different men. Birth control is never used. And culturally it is accepted, and I am guessing, expected, that a girl will begin having children at a young age. There are so many children who don't attend school (although Cameroon has one of the highest literacy rates in Africa- about 63%), who wear the same dirty ripped dress without a zipper for days and days, who are not properly fed and cared for, pot bellies, chiggers in their feet... It is what you would typically think of. And even after just 2 weeks, it feels normal.

On a lighter note, the kids here are TOUGH. Babies cry and no one really pays attention. They get hurt and they are told to get up. The boys play football (soccer) with flipflops or no shoes at all. They are REALLY good and they get REALLY beaten up. And no one says a word about not having the proper equipment. That's not an option. You just get on with it.

We've found a lot of time on our hands because several of the projects still need to be developed, so we have hooked up with another organization in town that works with orphans, teaches in the schools, builds schools, has a farm... So we've decided to spend some time working with them in the mornings.

I'm currently working on a community health initiative, specifically women's health issues and albinos (there is a very high population of albinos here). When Julia leaves in 2 weeks, I might take over her task of working one-on-one with several orphans who attend a really terrible school. Hopefully after the first rains in march I will begin planting the farm. There is plenty to do!

OH! WE GOT WATER! A freezing cold shower at the end of the day has never felt so good...

My first Week

2009-02-16T08:34:00.000-08:00

The computers here are slow and sometimes unavailable, so I haven't been able to post a new blog until now. That, and the fact that I was violently ill from last Wednesday until yesterday. I thought there was a parasite eating my insides so i went to the hospittal... nothing more than a bad traveler's stomach. Nothing a little CIPRO can't take care of! Feeling much better today. It's difficult adjusting to the food- there are very little options, and sometimes I just don't feel like eating rice again...

We still don't have running water, so we've been bathing in the stream just below the house. Usually our routine is to bathe before sunset- after we have collected enough dust to cover our entier bodies- with an audience leaning over the bridge to watch. 3 white girls in bathing suits... washing their hair and shaving their legs... Very entertaining.

Our cook, Rose, is a gem! Every morning she arrives and tells us that she has missed us. For breakfast we either have pancakes with a banana, eggs with a bannana, an omlette with a bananna, or just 3 banannas. Hopefully I won't become ill from overloaded potassium levels!
Rose stays for breakfast and lunch, and we have either rice, pasta, rice, fo-fo (looks like mashed potatoes, but made with corn, kind of like polenta), or rice. So you're getting the point... not much variety in the food here! There are many wonderful friuts and veggies growing, even though it is the dry season- avocados, plantains, carrots, coco yams, pineapples, and very soon mangos. Everything is obviously fresh and local!

My favorite character here is James. He lives next door and is responsible for collecting water for us, so he has a key to the house and will just let himself in... just to check in and see whats going on. He speaks only pigeon, no english, and has the most wonderful deep rustic voice. One morning we accidentally locked him out of the house, so he went to Hannah's window and said, "Hello! Hello. Say hello!"

Belo is really wonderful. Everyone is so welcoming of us, and the children we pass will often say hello and good morning, and the littlest ones just stare. The view from our house is beautiful- the stream and a school below, a road beside, and the mountains all around. I will post a picture if I can... We have chickens, goats, and roosters in the yard. There are some baby goats- maybe a week old. They are so cute and clean! Playing like real kids- running in circles and pushing each other. One day we swam with some children at the stream- every day they go to play for hours! The girls were more interested in us, and the boys searched for frogs and tadpoles and placed them on the rocks to die- typical boys. The children are kind of typical of what one would expect of African children- dirty, some very dirty, no toys, but inventive in the things they play with. There was a little girl carrying around a milk carton on her back like it was a baby. You do with what you have here.

Cameroon has very little money, and often people cannot afford to buy clothing or shoes, or school supplies for the children. RUDEC has an orphan program which is not completely set up yet, but if you are interested in donating some money, you can email me. One American dollar can go farther than you can imagine.

Today was the first day of art classes! We're going to do art on Mondays and Thursdays. The after school program will be everyday, 2 days of sports and 1 day of tutoring. The children, as far as I could tell, enjoyed themselves. Maybe it was that I was a new person, but they seemed very shy and reserved, so I'm hoping that they will soon warm up to us! We just did some drawing with crayons, learned about lines, and then they drew whatever they wanted. For children who don't have that opportunity often, there are some good little artists!

The program is very new and needs a lot of development on every project, so it is both daunting and exciting to think of creating new programs. Its still early, so we'll just see where things go. The program we are mostly working on now is the after school program.

We went to Bamenda market the other day, the closest city. It was a quite polluted city but an extremely fascinating experience. The market stretched forever it seemed, with different sections for different goods. There was the fresh food section, the clothing section, the poultry section... they carry chickens in closed baskets... kind of heart-breaking and hilarious at the same time.

I have realized many things about myself here... some of them just a reinforcement of things I already knew. Like how much I appreciate- and like- my life in America. I really do. I don't want to be a poor world traveler, but I like to have a toilet that flushes without having to dump a gigantic bucket of water in the back of it every time, and clean running water in the kitchen without having to wipe off dishes with ONLY the water that has been boiled so as not to get sick again. I have taken a liking to my mosquito net, however. Kind of like my own little canopy in which I can be an African princess...

FINALLY HERE!

2009-02-09T09:04:00.000-08:00

All i can say is...WOW.

In the past 48 hours so much has happened that I can't even wrap my head around it all. So here are some of the highlights...

When I finally arrived after 20 hours of traveling, I got off the plane and stepped into the most humid air I've ever felt. The airport in Douala is a ZOO! (Some call Douala the armpit of Africa.)
I was suckered into giving $$ to someone who told me I had to pay for my bags to clear customs. Stupid! It was so crazy with people bumping into you and pushing you... when I found Joshua and Hannah I was so relieved. Julia's flight was delayed from Paris, so we went back to the hotel for the night. The power was out at the hotel, so we sat around 2 tealights and talked a little.

Our hotel was quite cute, with a open air patio with a metal and palm leaf roof. Since we had to wait for Julia to arrive late that afternoon, we literally had to just waste time.... We ventured out and got some food from a local restaurant- fried fish and fried plantains and potatoes. Joshua (our CAmeroonian program coordinator) ate his entire fish, including all bones and head. I just couldn't do it... I was feeling quite uncomfortable anyway, walking around a city in which I clearly don't belong. It was so hot. So here I am sitting in front of a plate of fish bones, feeling like i should eat them, but knowing that I just couldn't. So Joshua ate mine. Then he ate Hannah's. And it was all good.

An afternoon with nothing to do is exhausting! There was a beautiful breeze off the water (douala is on the coast) that made me feel, when I closed my eyes, like I was sitting on the front porch of our beach house. It felt just the same, except totally different.

Went to the airport to pick up Julia at 5:30, but we didn't see her until 8:00. Like I said, the airport is a zoo. Seriously! I saw some of themost beautiful African dresses made of traditional fabrics. We got lots of curious looks from children- we even had a little one point to us and yell that we are white! It must be a sight... There were boys playing drums in the street, dancing and singing. It reminded me of some experiences at LEAF, but the real deal.

After we got Julia, we had to high-tail it to the bus station to catch the "between 9 and 10 bus." (One lesson so far is to be more flexible.) We got there with plenty of time, after a car ride from the city, passing huts on the side of the road with pepole selling things- meat kabobs, fried fish, nuts... and bottoming out a few times (I did have heavy bags, after all.) We had a big beer and the most memorable "toilet" experience I will probably ever have. All I have to say is, a hole in the ground and cockroaches. Mind you, this is Africa. I really can't even explain it.

Finally, at almost 11, we geared up for an 8 hour bus ride- me, by the window (so I didn't throw up), Julia in between, and Hannah on the aisle. We talked and laughed over some booming Africa music, and then thought it a good idea to get some zzzz's.... But the African music kept on playing, and kept on... And it was 5 in the morning and we were like, "really?!" I mean, loud, I'm not talking light background music. You had to TRY to talk over it. Until the very end. We stopped for a while and bought fried plantains and pineapples. When we reached BAmenda, we caught a taxi to Belo- the 4 of us in the backseat, 2 women in the passenger front seat, and 2 men in the driver's seat. I know what you're thinking. Yea, I was thinking the same thing.....

But we arrived to Belo as the sun was rising. Its a beautiful mountain town. People were up and going, kids walking to school, others carrying things on top of their heads. Most barefoot walking along the road.

Got to go soon, but our house is fantastic! WE have a spectacular view of the mountains, a cook named Rose who made us a cake to welcome us, and a lovely river just below where kids play after school, and where we will be bathing. Yes... there is no running water.

More to come very soon! I'll let you know how my bath goes tonight!

Facts about Cameroon!

2009-02-04T12:13:00.000-08:00

I bought a Lonely Planet guide to West Africa, and was BLOWN AWAY by all the great things that Cameroon holds!

Here are some interesting pieces of information that have excited me!

Cameroon is one of the most culturally diverse countries on the continent. From ancient tribal kingdoms in the west to "pygmy" villages in the south and Muslim pastoralists in the north, it is rich in indigenous cultures. ("Pygmies" refers to a diverse group of people who are short in stature, living in forested areas of Southeast Cameroon and central Africa. They have lived by hunting and gathering, or traded for cultivated foods. Their history parallels that of our Native American Indian in that when Cameroon was colonized, they were forced into managed settlements where they were often exploited.)

The rainforest at Korup National Park (in the volcanic mountains close to the coast bordering Nigeria) is thought to be the oldest on the continent, and the most biologically diverse, making it Africa's top location for plant biodiversity! It is also home to the drill - the most endangered primate species in Africa- which is restricted to Cameroon and Nigeria.

Mount Cameroon is the highest peak in West Africa- a still active volcano- it rises almost straight from the sea!

With so many rainforests, it is no surprise that wood carving makes up a significant proportion of traditional arts and crafts.

The northwestern highlands (where I'll be!) is known for its carved masks. This area is also rich in high-quality clay, and some of Cameroon's finest ceramic works are made there.

Cameroon also produces highly detailed bronze and brass works (including figurative works and pipes).

Christianity makes up 40% of Cameroon's population. About 1/4 of Cameroonians are Muslim. The remainder of the population follow indigenous religions.

When meeting a local chief, it is often expected to give a small gift- a bottle of whiskey is common currency!

There is SO much more I can share, but I'll just have to write about it once I get there and experience it for myself! I leave Friday afternoon, and will fly through Atlanta, Brussels, then to Doulala, where I will arrive on Saturday evening, spend the night, and travel by bus (8 hours) to Belo the next day.

The next time you hear from me will be from almost halfway across the world!!!

Happy travels!

Projecting a new Perspective

2009-01-28T13:05:00.000-08:00

I take so much for granted. I am so fortunate to have what I have. I keep wondering how my perspective will change, and on what?

I wonder this as I take a long, hot shower. Or as I wash the dishes. How many people in other parts of the world can do this? Who can let the water run for as long as they want? I could let it run for.... ever, really. It would never run out. Clean water, right in my house. In other parts of the world safe drinking water is completely unavailable, and thousands of children die from lack of clean drinking water. And I can drown myself a thousand times in it. Why am I so fortunate?

I also think about the concept of "needing" things. Well, I need that pair of rain-proof pants in Africa, because god forbid my legs get wet while I'm running around in the mud. And I need those socks so my feet won't get too hot. How many people in the world would give anything to have a pair of pants and a nice pair of socks?

I know I would be shocked if I made a list of every single thing in my house that I honestly did not need. It would give me a different perspective. Think about it. Think about what you NEED to survive. (I'm not asking you, I'm asking myself).

Its not much, really. Not much...

Nothing stays the same Forever

2009-01-23T04:46:00.000-08:00

The theme for this week is "Nothing stays the same forever." Between preparing for my trip, my sister's wedding, and saying goodbye to friends who are off to their own life-changing journey, I have been reminded of that over and over again recently.

For so long I have wanted change! For well over a year I felt a gravitational pull on my heart. It was pulling me towards the experience of this trip, I now realize. Its a feeling in the very depth of my being... something that cannot be explained in words... if you know that feeling, you know how powerful it is. Like the Universe, like God, is calling to you. I wasn't going to feel complete without acting upon it. And when I pushed it away- this feeling of wanting, of needing, to do something- it manifested itself in depression and dissatisfaction. That energy had built up and felt caged, and it needed to be released.

So last summer I said, "ok, thats it, if I'm going to do it, I'm doing it now." Before I even knew where I was going, I told people that I would be out of the country from February through April. I intentionally didn't apply to shows during that time. Then it became real!

These days I have an overwhelming of gratitude. There is so much to be grateful for! The opportunity to go on this trip, to learn from the people I meet and the experiences I will have, to learn about MYSELF! I am trying to be as open as possible, to have little expectation, to allow myself to absorb and quietly change...

I am grateful for this opportunity and being able to take time off from my work here, for a team of support (thank you!), for a creative mind (most of the time), and for the depth of feelings.

There is a beautiful sunny day waiting for me, so I'm going to live in it, and I'll be back soon.

Shakin' my Booty and Packing up my House

2009-01-20T05:54:00.001-08:00

I'm sitting at my computer looking at the snow falling so peacefully. I'm thinking, I can stand this cold for now because soon I'll be wearing sundresses and sandals!

We celebrated my departure by starting a dance party with.... who else.... Michael Jackson. Just what I had in mind for my last big night out! Thank you, all my wonderful friends!

Yesterday was my last day in the studio until May! I finished all orders and commissions, and almost my entire stock of jewelry is in boxes ready to be shipped to galleries. It was quite a feeling when I turned off my tanks, knowing this will be the longest time in 8 years that I will not be working at the bench. Who knows, I'll probably make jewelry out of some non-traditional and unexpected materials in Africa!

There will be three other ladies at RUDEC while I'm there: Anna from Germany, Julia from England, and Hannah from the US. We are all anticipating these new friendships, knowing they will be of a depth that can only be achieved through a life-changing experience. I'm being conscious to keep my expectations at a minimum, as I know that any I may have will be shattered once I arrive!

Getting Ready to go to Cameroon!

2009-01-10T16:36:00.000-08:00

I NEVER thought I would be a blogger. NEVER. Then I decided to go to Africa, and knew this was a great way to share my experience! (If you click on the larger image, you can find my little town called Belo in Cameroon!)

Here's the deal: a good year ago I felt the itch to "do something," something meaningful, something for others, something that would change my life forever. I am fortunate to have the flexibility to take time off when I want, so I decided last summer that if I was going to do something, I wanted to do it soon. I am young, I am able and willing, and above all, I NEED to do this. Its a feeling in the soul of my being.

So I began researching volunteer organizations in Africa. I want to see how other people in the world live and experience other cultures intimately. LEAF (the Lake Eden Arts Festival) introduced me and sparked my interest in African music, and honestly, that is one of the reasons I chose Africa. I wanted to take a sabbatical from making jewelry and focus on giving my energy to others. The organization I will be working with is called the Rural Development Center (www.rudec.org), based in Belo, Cameroon, a small town at about 3,800 feet in elevation. Without expectation, I will arrive and then figure out what projects I will be working on. My goal, though, is to begin a children's after-school art program. As far as I know, there are no art classes at the school. Hopefully I will change that!

Less than 4 weeks from departing, its coming down to the wire! Reluctantly, I went to the Health Department yesterday and received 7 SHOTS. I did NOT, surprisingly, faint and throw up. Almost fainted... I feel like I've been beaten up by a club bouncer, but I shouldn't get sick! Better a sore arm (or 2 sore arms) than returning home with yellow fever or polio! (plus all the others...)

Business is wrapping up in the studio, and I'm feeling pretty good about putting everything on hold for a while. I know once I return I'll be itching to get back there and make things again!!!

In the meantime I will be packing and occasionally stepping on the scale with my GIANT suitcase to make sure its less than 50 pounds. I already have 7 pounds in LARAbars and other energy bars... More to come later!